Avoid This Common Trap!

Avoid This Common Trap!

From the ,multiplier chart ,below, we can ,see that the, multiplier for, a 30º bend is exactly ,2. That's why, many electricians, will bend, nothing except 30º offsets; the math needed is simple and easy. This practice also results in unnecessarily sharp bends, harder wire pulls, and often additional junction boxes. It can also add time and money to the job and cause additional work during wire pulls. This practice is easy to avoid. Nearly everyone carries a cell phone with a calculator in it nowadays, and even if you don't you can still multiply two numbers. Do it right: Use a bend appropriate to the task. A large offset of 3 feet will probably need 45º bends, while a small one of a few inches can usually get by with 22º or even 10º bends. It is true that 10º bends can be difficult to get perfect, and that the math for 22º or 45º offsets takes a moment of effort, but neither is an excuse for shoddy workmanship.

A Last Word on Multipliers


A last word on multipliers: When bending large conduit, an angle finder is generally used to measure the precise angle being bent as the angle marks used on a hand bender are not stamped onto benders for large conduit. This raises an interesting possibility: Any angle desired may be used if you know the correct

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What is an Offset Bend?

What is an Offset Bend?

One of the more, common ,bends made, in electrical ,conduit ,is the offse,t bend: a technique, used to move ,a run of conduit, a set distance to one side, up or down. It is very rare that conduit can be placed in a straight line along the entire distance needed. There will usually be small projections in the way, other equipment to navigate around, or other reasons to move the conduit over some distance.

While bending conduit, one of the more important things to consider is the total number of degrees of bend between pull boxes. The NEC (national electric code) limits this number to 360º and some job specifications limit it even further. Fewer degrees of bend also result in an easier pull when it comes time to pull wire into the conduit—always a good thing. While bending an offset may be inevitable and necessary, the degree of the bend is variable depending on circumstances and the electrician doing the work.

An offset consists of two bends:
The first bend should change the direction the conduit is going.
The second should reverse that direction change. The result is a rather "Z" shaped piece of conduit, as shown in the pictures below.

The most common bend used is a 30º bend, followed by another of the same, resulting in a total bend of 60º, but this is not necessary in most cases. Bends of 10º, 22º, and occasionally 45º or even 60º, are marked on all hand benders and should be used when appropriate. The difference is in the multiplier, as discussed below.

Using the Multiplier When Bending an Offset

The multilplier is a number of the measured distance of the offset is multiplied by to obtain the distance between the two bends.

You should memorize this number for the common bends of 10, 22, 30, and 45 degrees. Many benders have the multiplier permanently stamped on the reverse side of the bender—a useful option for the beginning electrician. These numbers are also shown in the chart below.

Once the offset distance is measured, multiply that measurement by the appropriate multiplier from the chart. These figures are all in decimals, though most people will use a tape measure marked in fractions of an inch. The decimals must be converted to fractions to be useful. Few electricians will try to mark and bend conduit in increments of less than 1/8" (the bending process just isn't all that accurate), so the number needs to be converted to just such a fraction. I've listed the decimal equivalents of multiples of 1/8" in the next table. You probably already recognize half of them and the other half is easily memorized. Don't be afraid to round off your numbers— 1/1000" of an inch just isn't enough to worry about!

For example, let's suppose that the distance needed is 3½", and that we want to use a 22º bend. The multiplier for 22º is 2.6, and 3½" is 3.5" in decimal notation. Using a calculator, we find that 2.6 times 3.5 equals 9.1". Now 9.1" is very close to 9.125" (the difference is only .025") which we can see from the chart is 9 1/8". The difference between 9.1 and 9.125 is less than 1/32". That's probably less than half the width of the sharpie line you will draw on the conduit! Don't worry about it. Just use the 9 1/8" figure.

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Check for ceiling water

 Check for ceiling water \

damage and wall waterdamage. If the drywall is just stained, you can fix it with a stain blocking primer and new paint.





Stop the water!


This article contains some real how to information! not just a bunch of text to get you to click on links. I will give you some real practical advice on how to clean up and repair water damage whether it be from a flood, plumbing leak, or roof leak. First off you need to stop the water! If it is a leak in your plumbing you will probably have to shut the water main off at the street (or pressure tank if you are on a well). If the water is coming from roof damage a tarp will normally work for a quick fix. If it's from a flood you will need sandbags to try to divert the water away from the house. This will only work for small flooding areas. In a big flood you will just have to wait it out.


Ok, Now that the water is stopped let’s make sure the power is turned off to the room or rooms that are affected. You can usually just go to your breaker box and find the breakers that need to be turned off. If you cannot get to the breaker box without going through water you should call an emergency water damage professional.






Do it yourself home water clean up and water damage repair DIY.

Get the water up.


The first thing you need to do is get the water out of the house. The longer the water sits the more damage you will have to your home. If you have a lot of standing water and you are in the basement or any room that you cannot open the door and sweep the water out you can use a shop vac for smaller job or you can use a pump for bigger jobs (you can get a small pump for a garden hose that attaches to your drill at most hardware/plumbing stores for cheap). If the room has carpet you will need to use a shop vac to suck as much water out of the carpet as possible to avoid carpet water damage. If you cannot get the water up in a timely manner call a local water damage service.

Salvage what you can.


Move all furniture and appliances out of the room and dry them off the best you can. Then collect any papers and pictures that are not totally destroyed and lay them out to dry. If your cloths got wet the most important thing to remember is to get your clothes dry as quickly as possible. If you can, wash them ASAP. If not hang them up to dry. If your clothes have fire water damage you will most likely have to toss them. Or call a water restoration service.

Get the air circulating.


Ok, now we need to get the air circulating to dry the room out. If it is not raining open the windows up all the way. If it is raining you will still need to open some of the windows just make sure that rainwater is not coming through the open window. Next, if you have ceiling fans turn them on high. You will also need to place floor fans, box fans, or air movers in each room. You may also need to use a dehumidifier or two. The dehumidifier has a tank that fills with water as it is extracted from the air. You will need to empty it often. If you have carpet that got soaked you will need to lift it up and get air moving under it. Otherwise the carpet pad will not dry which will lead to nasty smells and mold. Just pull the carpet loose from that tack strips and stuff some 2x4’s or something under it to create an air space between the carpet and the pad. Then stuff an air mover or fan under the edge of the carpet.

Start Cleaning.


Now, if the water was not really nasty you can just mop the floors and clean the walls with all purpose cleaner. But if it was sewer water or other “black water” you will need a sewage cleanup professional.


For small bubbles and minor damage (3 or 4 inches) you will need to scrape them off and fill with drywall mud (20 minute hot mud works good for this). Now let the mud set up. If the hole went all the way through the drywall you will need to cover the entire hole with ether mesh tape or paper tape. If you are using mesh tape just stick it to the drywall make sure it overlaps its self and the hole by at least ½ inch. Then just cover it with all purpose drywall mud. If you are using paper tape put a thin layer of mud over the area then stick the paper tape to the mud overlapping the hole. Let dry after smoothing the paper out with your trowel. Then cover the paper tape with a coat of mud. After it’s all dry you can sand it smooth at this point or you may need to put another skim coat of mud over the patch to smooth it out better. Sand smooth then prime all patches with drywall primer. Next you will need to retexture the patches to match the existing wall. The easiest way to texture is to use the stuff in the can (you are limited to orange peel or knock down). You can find it at most hardware store.






If your drywall is bowed or has any other major damage you will need to replace the affected are. First you will need to locate the nearest stud on either side of the damage. Use a nail to poke some holes through the drywall. Keep making holes in a line horizontally across the wall until you locate the studs (you will need to cut down the middle of the studs). Cut a rectangle out of the drywall with a utility knife. Next, replace the area with new drywall. Then mud and tape the joints using the method explained above. If the damage is more sever you will need to call a fire and water damage restoration company.

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One Insurance

1. What cost will I have to pay for your services?

One Insurance

Its important ,to know what you ,are going to have ,to pay. ,While most, lawyers have ,a contingency ,fee, it is a good idea ,to know exactly, what it is if they do,. A contingency fee agreement states that there will be no legal fees if a case is lost. If you win the lawyer will get around 30% which will vary depending on the case.

2. Will I have to pay anything if we lose?

This should be explained to you when you ask about the cost for services, but if its not be sure to bring it up during the initial meeting with the lawyer. While contingency fee agreements are mostly done, it is not a good idea to just assume that it will be. So find out ahead of time, and save yourself a headache.

3. Have you handled a case like this? (If yes, what was the outcome?)

You should take time to find someone who has already handled a case like yours. It is important to make sure they have a full understanding of what is going to be put into your case. If they have dealt with a case like this, it is a good idea to see how they did. You want to make sure you do not use someone who constantly loses cases like this.

4. How often will we be in contact during this case?

Finding out how long your lawyer will be spending dealing with your case is a good thing to know. You should get a lawyer that doesn't have a lot of cases, that way you can get the directed attention your case needs.

5. How long will this process take?

Finding out a time frame can let you know how quickly the case could be handled. It will also let you know how long it will take you to be able to get compensated for your injuries.

6. Do cases like this ever go to trial?

It is also important to see how often cases like yours go to trial. If you don't have to go to trial, and you can settle outside of court, it is a easier process. So knowing this fact can tell you if you are most likely going to wind up in a court room.

7. Can I get references from past clients?

Getting references for anything helps make decisions much easier. Dealing with issues like this can make all the difference. Hearing from people who have already used this lawyer, should help you understand how they work, and if its in your best interest to use them.

8. Do you have specific areas of law you deal with?

Finding out what a lawyers specific areas of law are, will help you eliminate lawyers who don't deal with your situation. There is a lot of competition out there to get clients, some lawyers will try to pressure you into going with them. Be sure you know what you are going to be getting from them, and that you are hiring them to work for you. You are the boss.

9. How much can I get from this case?

You should find out if it will be worth it to pursue compensation for your injuries or not. If your lawyers believe that the case isn't even worth fighting, then maybe you should consider whether this is the option you want to go with.

10. What will I have to do in the case?

Find out what you are going to have to do to help this case along. You will need to know what records or information you will need to help your case. You will also need to know how often you should contact the lawyers, and anything else that you have to do from your side.

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